CD Skripsi
Model Fisik Untuk Analisis Karakteristik Gelombang Pada Pantai Bergambut
The Bengkalis Island area in the village of Meskom has a peat beach, which
is formed from organic material or organic material that is naturally buried under
excessive wet conditions due to coastal waves. Waves that propagate on a beach
some of its energy will be reflected and partly anticipated by the shape of the beach
conditions. The distribution of the amount of waves reflected and also destroyed,
depends on the characteristics of the incoming waves in the form of periods, wave
heights, water depths, and the geometric of the beach profile (slope of the beach
profile). Overview Reflection and dissipation of waves is very important, because it
is a parameter to measure how much the beach's ability to reflect and dampen
waves. To get the value of reflection and wave dissipation, physical modeling is
conducted at the University of Riau's Hydrotechnical Laboratory, with the method
of analysis using a tool in the form of a wave channel with beach modeling material
(peat, permeable and artificial impermeable), with a wave generator that can
generate regular waves. In this study, using 2 variations of the slope of the beach
profile 15o and 90o. The results showed that the parameters that influence the
reflection efficiency and the wave dissipation coefficient are the structural
parameters consisting of the profile slope (θ), the influential parameters are the
height of the front wave structure (Hi), wave period (T) and water depth (d). the
four parameters above turned out to provide a considerable influence on the results
of the study. And from the research it can be concluded that the reflection coefficient
value is samller if the slope level of the profile model is greater, and the value of
the dissipation coefficient will be greater if the slope level of the profile model is
greater.
Keywords Wave Reflection and Dissipation, Profile slope (θ), structure
wave front height (Hi), wave period (T) and water depth (d).
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